FDH WEAR

What is heavyweight cotton?

Heavyweight cotton is fabric that holds its own shape instead of taking yours.

The measure is GSM — grams per square metre. Most tees you own sit somewhere around 150 to 180. At 270 the same shirt stops clinging at the shoulder and starts hanging from it. At 282, in a sweatshirt, the cuff keeps its circle after you push the sleeve up.

That is the whole difference, and it is not a small one. Light cotton moves with every breath you take, which means some part of you is registering it all day. Heavy cotton settles once and then stays where it was put. You stop noticing what you are wearing, which is the closest thing to comfort that clothing can honestly offer.

It costs something. Heavyweight cotton takes longer to dry and it is warmer, which makes it a fabric with a season in most of the country. It is also the reason a garment lasts past the year you bought it in.

Detail of a heavyweight cotton sweatshirt — temporary stand-in, id 482

282 GSM is 8.3 ounces per square yard.

A standard tee is 150 to 180. A canvas tote is around 340.

The sweatshirt sits closer to the tote than to the tee — and that is why the shoulders stay where you put them. The inside face is french terry: the loop is left uncut rather than brushed flat. That is what makes the fabric warm without sealing heat in — the loop holds air instead of trapping it. We have worn these since November, washed about twice a month — call it twenty cycles. Nothing has changed: no shrinkage we can measure by eye, no sag at the neckline, no thinning at the elbow. That is one wardrobe over ten months, not a laboratory test, and we will say so plainly.

Hands at work at the factory — temporary stand-in, id 370

Crafted in India, in small batches.

Read about our fabric weights